known as neutral or (N) and should be screwed into its connector as well. Step 7: Installing the 20 Gauge Wire From the BusBar to the Yeeco's Input Sides Get out the 20 gauge wire and strip the ends. Make sure you solder hookup website scams it exactly as I am or else you will be hooking up reversed voltages later. Tin the posts of the XT60 connectors and solder in the wires to all five of the connectors, making sure you are soldering in the correct polarity (red/positive flat side; black/negative triangle side.) Slap some heat shrink on those and shrink em' down real good. I made screw holes but I decided to use four #64 rubber bands to hold the lid.
I printed the case in PLA with 30 honeycomb infill and sliced it using the latest version of Slic3r.2.9. You should have a small buzz going by now. As a word of caution for you guys with smaller printers, the case measures 300mm by 140mm. Next cut off all the tiny tabs with dike cutters, making sure that when you are done that they are not touching the other side at all (aka shorting.) Do not split the wires apart but only do so at the very ends. You now have five high quality charging cables. Unscrew all the Yeecos inputs as shown (unscrew until the screw is flush with the top of the connector) Screw in the striped wires as shown and screw them down. Step 11: Setting the Proper Current Okay, now you really need to follow these directions carefully. Set the voltage.8 volts (watch your meter as you adjust the screw) Do the same for the remaining Yeeco's. I keep all.stl files open source as well, and they can be found at the following link bellow. Then stick the other lead in the negative side of your solo charging cable. Make sure to put it in the right direction.